At Ouranoupolis dock, people are streaming ashore. Red-faced backpackers, black-clad monks, wheezing retirees. All of them are male, because this is Mount Athos. It seems incredible that a woman-free stronghold exists within the European Union. But on the Athos peninsula – the third tendril of Halkidiki in Northern Greece – a border near Ouranoupolis divides the all-male monastic communities of Mount Athos from the rest of Greece. Access is by boat only, and checks are strict