Every year, photo galleries of illuminated ice sculptures in China are emblazoned across news websites. Harbin's International Ice and Snow Festival inspires travellers around the world to marvel and think: “Next year, I'm going there.” Well, I finally did. And I had as surreal – and nose-numbing – experience as I'd hoped. But there are two major things that I learned: #1 – For an international festival, Harbin's ice-travaganza can be mystifying to foreign visitors. #2 – Ther